Check out the live wolf cam coming from the Wolf Conservation Center in South Salem, New York! It’s awesome! We’ve had it full screen on the computer all day.

While preparing for their roles, Liam Neeson and other “The Grey” cast members crossed the line from fantasy into reality: as a form of method acting, they requested real frozen wolf meat to be flown in to their filming location in Alaska.

Though the wolf was already dead prior to the actors’ request, it is unclear why the animal was killed.

The movie’s subject matter, combined with the actors’ unnecessary consumption of real wolf meat, are disrespectful to these native creatures and will perpetuate negative stereotypes of wolves. Please sign the petition to boycott this irresponsible film.

Click here to sign.

The Wolf Conservation Center in South Salem, NY recently brought in two new wolf cubs to the organization to become Ambassador Wolves. As the cubs, Alawa and Zephry, grow into adults they will have the important job of teaching people how important wolves are in the wild and why we should support the WCC’s efforts to keep the wolf population in America strong.

Dog Files will be visiting every month or so till the cubs are full grown wolves and in 2012 you’ll be able to see the wolf cubs as they grow and develop in a new Dog Files episode. Filming is going to be so much fun and if you can’t wait to see the episode, check out our first episode, featuring the Wolf Conservation Center.

This is Alawa (above), one of two new wolf cubs at the Wolf Conservation Center. Alawa is female and seems to be the more cautious of the two.

This is Zephyr (above), a boy and from my experience, a bit more rambunctious than Alawa.

Alawa (above) checking out her surroundings.

Kai the German Shepherd (above), relaxing on the cabin steps. He’s the surrogate dad to Alawa and Zephyr, setting them straight when they get out of line.

It is with great sadness that I bring news of the passing of Kaila, a beautiful Wolf Ambassador at the Wolf Conservation Center in South Salem, New York.

She joins Ambassador Wolves, Apache and Lukas, who both passed in 2010, on the other side of the rainbow bridge.

Kaila lived a healthy, happy 15 years and was the original ambassador wolf at the Wolf Conservation Center.

This spring Kaila will join her fallen pack mates as her cremated remains will be placed in Yellowstone National Park where she will forever dwell among the wild wolves that she helped people better understand.

Please watch the Dog Files Episode below entitled, The Wolf Files, to learn about Kaila, her pack and the Wolf Conservation Center.

On a happier note, the Center will be introducing a new pack of wolf cubs to the center this Spring. We’re hoping the Dog Files will be there to document it.

The Dog Files sends our sincerest condolences to the great people that make up the Wolf Conservation Center.

– Kenn, Max & Remy

Q and A with Dog Trainer, Lon L. Flewelling

By Lon L. Flewelling For The Dog Files

Q and A No.2 with Lead Dog, Lon L. Flewelling of Lead Dog Services in Denver;
This month I address, 1.) Chewing woodwork 2.) Alpha dogs 3.) Dog attacking lawn mower and weed trimmer 4.) Introducing new puppy to household

Krystal:
Have you any ideas on how to treat an Australian stumpy-tailed Cattle dog who has ADHD??? I haven’t got much of my house left.

Lon L. Flewelling:
In my opinion I don’t believe that they actually have adhd. I believe it’s more that the active, pent up herding and working dog breeds exhibit the same symptoms as what we might think is ADHD.

I recommend LOTS of activity to drop the energy level, then add a great deal of short session training, i.e. making them use their brain in sit/stay, stop and automatic sit at stop signs, direction changes during walks, etc. I believe these will have successful results to alleviate the symptoms.

Also, some dogs react to preservatives in commercial foods that can interact with their chemistry to produce the same symptoms as well. So a higher quality, good blend of proteins and fiber.

I suggest that you slowly introduce any new food over a two week period starting with 3/4 of their current food, 1/4 of the new food to allow their systems to adjust to the change without adverse reactions. every couple of days adjust the quantity of old to new increasing the new slightly until you are feeding all new food.

I had a great and interesting question and answer conversation with Bob Mattice, a fellow trainer and president of The Doggie Door in Innisfall, AB, Canada;

Bob:
I have a client now that wants me to temperament test her dog. This big English mastiff got into it with an Alpaca, and ripped its ears off, and it wasn’t pretty. Now the farmers are suing her and trying to charge this dog as a dangerous breed. So i have a few friends that do this type of work also and we sort of consult each other. I tested this dog harshly and everything last night and couldn’t get him to show any signs of aggression. Next thing I plan with him is some exposure training with live stock. I have set her up with some strict obedience training, and serious energy draining exercise. What types of test would you test for with something like this???

Lon:
I usually start with a fence line test just to watch for the body language and posturing that come with general aggression whether livestock or other dogs and even humans. Obviously there can be fence aggression/territory issues that can throw off the ‘test’ but safety first. On lead walking passes within close proximity of the animals, if possible with the stock walking opposite direction getting closer each pass while watching for the same language and posture. These usually allow interception and correction should any issues arrive and gives and idea of what may be the trigger to the event as well. Does anybody know what lead up to the aggression? i.e. any actions from the alpaca, previous agitation from another source, etc?

Bob:
Yeah exactly. I did just that with all sorts of dogs going at him at the fence and he corrected out of any reaction so easily. He does show fear reaction tho, where he tries to bolt a couple of times but after walking him and working through that he was a million times better than when we first started the walk. He doesn’t pull on the leash for me one bit. He corrects extremely well for a dog that gets zero exercise or structure. Thats just it no one knows what set him off. the farmer just saw the end and chased him off.

Lon:
Given that they are generally a guard dog prone to warning and tend to hold an intruder at bay rather than attack I wonder if there is an outside reason or source that made it take action…

Bob:
With the way he seems fearful towards some things, do you think the Alpaca came after him maybe and he just reacted to its attack??

Lon:
I really do believe that’s a solid possibility as to what happened, ‘mouse in the corner’ reaction. The Alpaca being taller and if unshorn look much like a really big dog. They can be somewhat aggressive themselves and tend to spit, kick and brae at an intruder, all misconstrued as aggressive canine behavior to the uneducated dog.

Bob:
He was also with another dog that stayed outside the fence and usually runs up and down but never has he gone in before. So he may have gotten the Alpaca’s going before my guy went in the fenced area too.
I’m so glad that you seem to be on the exact same thinking mode as I am too with this case.

Lon:
Using the information available as ‘evidence’ if you will, it seems that the reason it happened is solid. That makes it workable as well. The strong, but gently assertive leadership approach coupled with much needed activity approach should bring good results.

Lon L. Flewelling was born the middle and most charming of three boys in rural Minnesota where he spent many formative hours on family farms directly interacting with animals nearly from day one. Since his youth he enjoyed the gift and magic of close communication abilities particularly with dogs. Lon followed his gift into the world of wolf studies to further develop my passion and abilities to understand canines and their communications with each other and humans. He is a perpetual student of canines and sees no end to the absorption of canine knowledge.

“Lon L. Flewelling is the human owner’s manual on how to operate your dog in Denver!”
-Shasta Michaels-

Q and A with Dog Trainer, Lon L. Flewelling

By Lon L. Flewelling For The Dog Files

Q and A with Lead Dog, Lon L. Flewelling of Lead Dog Services in Denver;
This month I address, 1.) Chewing woodwork 2.) Alpha dogs 3.) Dog attacking lawn mower and weed trimmer 4.) Introducing new puppy to household

1. Ashley asked:

Do you know how to get a dog to stop chewing on a door frame? My boy won’t stop, I need help. He is constantly chewing on things even though he has chew toys.

Lon L. Flewelling:

I have had success with a couple of methods/tools…One is a product called Grannick’s Bitter Apple, a few drops has the sour of about 10 Granny Smith Apples…VERY bitter. Some dogs, however have no problem with bitter, those often respond to hot, I steep some cayenne pepper powder and strain the liquid through cheesecloth. Either can be applied the spots where he chewed without staining, and should work. If and when you catch him doing it a stern, “AH! Leave it” will reprogram his thinking. Leave it can be used for anything, remotes, other dogs or cats, books, anything you don’t want him to get into. I also have a few squirt bottles around to get the attention before “Leave it!” When he stops reward with a “Good Leave It” and offer him one of his toys. Also reprograms his switches.

The result of this suggestion was that the hot wasn’t successful however the bitter did make Ashley’s dog avoid the woodwork, and her follow-up with the suggested commands improved the situation considerably.

2. Gina contacted me with the following:

Sherri of The Dog Examiner posted this. I was curious as to your thoughts about it.
　
“If you watch a pack of wolves move around in the wild; it is the Alpha who says where they are going. The top wolves decide which direction to go in but they don’t have to be out front; that is a fallacy. The members of the pack watch the Alpha and go where he goes but the lower members are all about, even out in front. When I take my… dogs for a walk in the woods and everyone is off leash they are following me; there is no doubt about it but they are like a pack of wolves, all around.

In my opinion having your dogs walk behind you is just not fun for me or my dogs. But keeping them back there to show them who’s boss defeats the purpose of why we are out for a walk.”

Lon L. Flewelling:

Having observed wolf and dog packs, I agree that the alpha wolves do guide the pack but not necessarily need to be physically in front of the pack. The members constantly check on the body posture and language of the leaders for their cues as to where to go. In fact, when they are relatively stationary or in a ‘camp’ so to speak, the alpha male often takes a high ground spot to watch for potential dangers, while the alpha female if in the middle of the pack and if all is calm and controlled she does nothing to interfere.

I have always felt that if there is a ‘problem child’ dog strong guidance like being in front, going through doors first, etc. will reset their mental switches but when they are truly following the alpha, and respond to commands they can go out front. Mine will listen when I call them back to me with a ‘check in’ so they are still in compliance with alpha leadership and the reward is being allowed to go ahead where I can watch and enjoy them, and use their protective nature to watch for possible problems. They trust me and I trust them.
　
　
3. Jeannine asked:

Why do dogs attack the mower? Buffy attacked my mower and her mom wants to eat my weed wacker.

Lon answered:

I’m certain it’s two things, one they only see/hear them after months of not having them present and two they are VERY irritating noise to dog’s sensitive ears. I have had a number of behavior clients contact me about just those things. I generally consult them to have the pups on lead at the very least, and away from the machines if at all possible.

4. Marni asked:

We’re getting a second dog to make our little Havanese happy as his companion just moved to Florida. Do you think we should lean towards a male or a female? (Our doggie is male, but seems to get along with almost all dogs we have around here). Also, any special tips on training a new puppy that has to be confined for housetraining, etc. when there’s already a grown dog in the house?

Lon responded:

Is your boy fixed? Often it doesn’t make too much difference which you get…some do better with opposite sex, but not too much of an issue. More important issue would be introducing them in a neutral place that is not his territory, like home. I have always had success meeting at a park, or green belt. I have started a ways away from each other and walking them on lead towards each other, making a few passes and making certain that they go to a calm and submissive mode before they actually meet nose to butt. They can then go home together and will likely just go into the home together without problems.

As far as the house training, very often the older dog will help train the newbie by the signals he puts off, i.e. whining, scratching at the door to go outside. He may have moments when he has accidents inside thinking he can get away with it also. I usually recommend two avenues, using a crate for any extended periods as they most often do not relieve themselves where they sleep. First action when allowing them out is to use the command “go pee outside!” and take or let them out and reward with a “good pee outside!” when they do. I teach to reward the action not the dog, i.e. “good pee outside” not “good boy!” Also utilized puppy pads as they have infused ammonia odor to attract them to go on a spot that already smells like a ‘used’ spot. You can use a few leading up to a door that you use to have them go out to relive and remove the pads one at a time until there is one in front of the door.

Lon L. Flewelling was born the middle and most charming of three boys in rural Minnesota where he spent many formative hours on family farms directly interacting with animals nearly from day one. Since his youth he enjoyed the gift and magic of close communication abilities particularly with dogs. Lon followed his gift into the world of wolf studies to further develop my passion and abilities to understand canines and their communications with each other and humans. He is a perpetual student of canines and sees no end to the absorption of canine knowledge.

“Lon L. Flewelling is the human owner’s manual on how to operate your dog in Denver!”
-Shasta Michaels-

And remember, whether your child gives you socks or your pup buries your socks in the backyard, it’s always the thoughts and love that count!

Happy Father’s Day, Dad!

Introducing Dogs To Each Other

By Lon L. Flewelling For The Dog Files

I always enjoy the challenge and pleasure of success in introducing new dogs to each other in such a way that they understand there is no threat to territory or self. Toni wanted to do just that to ensure a happy, healthy pack.

Toni asked:

I want to have a pack. My dog Kid, my step-son’s year old female Bella, also a pit, and his latest rescue, roscoe, 11 month old pit. Lots of pits. Anyway, how do I go about making them a pack? Kid has met both dogs, not together. Loves Bella. Met Roscoe thru my fence, didn’t like. Fence is a problem I think.

Lon answered;

My best success has been to introduce on neutral ground so there are no territorial issues going on. The fence between dogs represents a solid territory line so in a park or open space that none of them ‘own’ works best.

Have them on leads and walk them past each other a number of times getting slightly closer with each pass. Reward and denial work here as with many things. The reward is to be able to be near and interact, denial comes into play if any of them growl, or start showing body language that is aggressive, stiffening body and tail, puffing up, staring…correct them immediately with a stern ‘leave it’ and if it persists, ‘denial’ would be to turn them away from the forward motion and walk away from the confrontation.

Give it a few minutes and try it again.

ONLY after both or all dogs are calm and in submissive mode, this may take a few passes, are they to be allowed the ‘reward’ of getting closer and closer until they can all sit near each other without any dominance or aggression.

If possible, when getting home take them for a walk together around the block in your neighborhood, side by side and never in front of you or your son…YOU are the pack leaders.

I would recommend plenty of water bowls side by side in and outside the home so there is no possessive/territorial actions there either.

Bring them into your yard or at least outside and repeat the walking and sitting near each other, making certain they are all calm and subdued. The house is your territory as pack leaders, not theirs, as subordinate pack members. If there is any body posturing or language from any of them, leash the perpetrator(s) and ‘deny’ them access to the others until they settle. Reward and denial…repetition of commands like ‘leave it’, ‘settle’ and consistency of commands will be your allies throughout.

Donna asked:

On the walk with my dogs – my romper kicks the dirt in the same spot every time. She will not do poddy anywhere but in her yard so it is not that she is covering up and there are no other dogs around that she is standing her ground. Is there another reason for this? I’m just curious.

Lon replied:

It is likely a spot that has some sort of odor or pee from another dog. Dogs have scent glands in their paws between their toes and the kicking is another form of marking to leave their scent on top of the last ‘contribution’.

Wolves in the wild will do the same thing on the spot of a kill and or over another’s urination.

Donna wrote back:

Wow, it is indeed a spot where many dogs pass by on their walks so many do relieve themselves nearby. I had no idea that dogs had scent glands in their pads, that explains a lot about when and where he has kicked before, thank you!

Lon L. Flewelling was born the middle and most charming of three boys in rural Minnesota where he spent many formative hours on family farms directly interacting with animals nearly from day one. Since his youth he enjoyed the gift and magic of close communication abilities particularly with dogs. Lon followed his gift into the world of wolf studies to further develop my passion and abilities to understand canines and their communications with each other and humans. He is a perpetual student of canines and sees no end to the absorption of canine knowledge.

“Lon L. Flewelling is the human owner’s manual on how to operate your dog in Denver!”
-Shasta Michaels-

Questions Of Dog Behavior

By Lon L. Flewelling For The Dog Files

The following are questions and answers posed to me via email. The first is from Toni questioning whether her dog can be taught to relieve himself in specified areas and deterred from eating droppings. The second is from Ditte asking about the reasoning behind her young Lab ‘sharing’ her bone.

1: Toni asked.

Hi Lon, I have kind of a silly question… Can I, or how do I teach my male dog to go to the potty in the same area?

Lon answered:

There are a couple of ways… dogs actually prefer to use the same area to relieve themselves so you can put a small post in that spot, if possible. You can purchase them with embedded smell to attract or you can pour some ammonia on a wooden one. When he goes on the spot reward him with a hearty “Good Pee”. You can also buy Pee Pads for puppies that have the same affect with embedded smells. Consistent and repetitive commands to ‘go pee’ and ‘good pee’ often work successfully.

Toni asked:

Will it work for his poo also?

Lon’s reply:

It will. It’s a bit gross but you can actually pick up a dropping from elsewhere with a glove or bag and place it there to entice. Always offer a big verbal reward when he does it right.

To deter cophragia, eating of droppings, for medium or large dogs mix approximately a tablespoon of equal parts of cut up cucumber and pineapple into his food. The acids in them react with the proteins in the food to make it less desirable.

2: Ditte, another client wrote to ask.　

I was just hanging out at home and my Lab, Molly came and gave me her bone. She just put it in front of me and looked at me. Then i pretend to eat a little of it and then give it back to her. She takes it and walks away but comes back after a round in the living room and gives it to me again. And then i have done the same or put it on the ground for her and she would just put it back up there…. What is she trying to tell me????? Or does she just want to share her delicious bone with me??

Its interesting cause she also seems so primal when she does it! I don’t know if i am totally of on this one but it seems like she is honorable to the bone…?? I hope you have seen it before.

Lon answered:

I have indeed seen this fairly often. It is primal and embedded in her DNA, I feel she is honoring you as her pack leader and offering food to you first. In wolf packs the alpha male and female ALWAYS get to eat first, the subordinates know and are just fine with this as they also know that the alphas will fairly provide and divide. She is absolutely proud of herself for having done the correct thing and respectful of you for rewarding her by ‘eating’ first and giving her the rest. In her young mind she is doing it over and over to wallow in the pleasure.
My Sheltie is doing a very similar thing now by coming to me from outside and wagging happily when I reward her with a “Good Come!”, she will wag and go back out, circle my deck and come back in almost smiling, getting squirmy when I offer her another “Good Come!” like she is SO proud of herself and respectful of me as a fair and just leader.

Ditte asked:

Should I be rewarding her in any way?

Lon replied:

You can feel free to simply take it and keep it for a while…she will understand if you do. You can even use it to do what is called ‘spotting the behavior’ in other words if you reward her with a “Good Bring it” you can then incorporate “Bring it” to have her bring you whatever she may grab in the future. I have taught Tasha, my Sheltie to do that if she picks up something I don’t want her to have i.e. cell phone, etc. She proudly brings it to me and gets the reward and is SOOO proud and happy.
　
Thanks to both Toni and Ditte for their great questions and I look forward to helping them and others with dog behavior issues!　

Lon L. Flewelling was born the middle and most charming of three boys in rural Minnesota where he spent many formative hours on family farms directly interacting with animals nearly from day one. Since his youth he enjoyed the gift and magic of close communication abilities particularly with dogs. Lon followed his gift into the world of wolf studies to further develop my passion and abilities to understand canines and their communications with each other and humans. He is a perpetual student of canines and sees no end to the absorption of canine knowledge.

“Lon L. Flewelling is the human owner’s manual on how to operate your dog in Denver!”
-Shasta Michaels-